My good friend Nick is an avid board gamer and enjoys hosting game nights at his house. He had helped fund a Kickstarter for the Duchess gaming table. The setup he envisioned for his house was a bar-height table with stools. Essentially, he needed a way to raise his top of his table about 10 inches, and came to me for advice on how to do that.
I thought the most stable solution would be to create a box with a lip that ran along the edges so the table couldn’t slide off. I made a quick sketch of that idea, and started brainstorming for lid ideas. I figured since the riser would be a big box, it should have large access panels for storage. I toyed with using a piano hinge to have doors that opened, though I ended up not going that route.
I also made a miniature cardboard mock-up of the plan to show him a 3D representation of the riser.
On the advice of a friend, I used CutList Plus to help me lay out the cuts for HomeDepot to hit with their panel saw. You enter in the dimensions of the pieces you need for your project, and the application figures out the most effective way to cut it from standard size stock. Really, the riser was such a basic thing, I don’t think was necessary, however, if I had a more complex task I would likely use the software again.Rather than taking home full sheets of MDF for the riser, most lumber / big box hardware stores will have a panel saw and can cut the full 4 by 8 foot panels down. This makes transporting the stock materials much easier. I managed to fit all the sections plus scrap into the back of the Subaru.
I love having an Outback. So handy.
I try to start all my assembly projects by organizing the pieces and test fitting before i get out the nail gun or the glue.
MDF stock and tools ready to start assembly.
It’s difficult to see in the smaller pic here, but I have laid out the pattern for the lids. Straightforward geometry, mostly. I think three inches from the short side, and four or five on the long side. I used an old coffee can to get the radius on the corners. It’s not fancy, but it works.
Guide lines sketched onto the riser top.
View of the inside of the riser. All the table’s weight is going to be at the four corners. The table will rest on the MDF top, which rests on the 2 x 4 support chine. (I’m not sure if you would those chines in non-boat-building woodwork, but that’s what I know them as. Woodworkers: please feel free to correct me.)
The point I was attempting to make before derailing myself with lexical semantics, is this riser is incredibly robust. Note that there is a a couple inch gap between the top of the 2×4 and the top of the sides. This gives the lip inside which the table rests, keeping it in place.
2×4 sections nailed and glued to the sides.
Test fit of the top within the box frame. Not much to add at this stage other than I breathed a large sigh of relief when the top slid into place. I’m not used to building with a high level of precision. Most of the things I work with have a fairly large margin of error, so I was pleasantly surprised when this came together so nicely.
Test fit of all the parts. I think this might work!
Next I needed to remove the access panels. I still hadn’t exactly decided on how to affix them. I knew They would need some kind of support from inside to keep them from falling in. Even with a hinge, the panels are pretty long, which would have a lot of strain. MDF doesn’t handle torque very well. It tends to burst if used as a lever. So I would need to make some kind of lip for the inside.
Circular saw plunge cuts for the straight lines. Jigsaw for the curves.
Access panels cut out.
Because I wanted to make the nicest possible product for my friend, I went and bought a router. I know, I was basically broke at the time, but I might have been eyeing routers anyway and I figured there no time like the present to add one to my collection. I wasn’t sure how the MDF would react to the router, so here’s my first two test cuts. I was interested to see how the corners would turn out. As it happens, they turned out great.
A word of advice though when using any kind of power tool on MDF: It makes and incredible amount of dust. Make sure you’ve got a dust collection system running, or you’ll be hacking up MDF for weeks.
Testing how the MDF and router play together. As it turns out, they play quite nicely.
Sometime around this point of the process, I decided to forego hinges, and instead have the simplicity of a single finger hole in each panel. Less hardware, less alignment, more wiggle room. All good things in my book.
Finger hole for door. Routed with a 1/4 round bit for comfort.
I keep buying clamps, and I never have enough of them. It’s silly. I should start asking for them for xmas gifts. To prevent the panels from falling through, I added in small MDF strips on 2 sides of each access hole. The center two run the entire width of the top, offering stability to the lid in addition to keeping the lids in place.
Clamping the side and door supports in place. One can never have clamps.
Access panel test fit.
I didn’t have any images of the painting, but really, who wants to see that? What’s far more satisfying is seeing the table riser in action! Behold!
The finished product in all its glory.
Nick asked if I could put in some holes for running electrical up the leg so people could charge their phones while gaming, and fortunately, I measured accurately. This isn’t like me at all! Look at that fit!
Access hole RIGHT where it needed to be. Hooray for accurate measuring in the planning phase.